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Trimming and pruning


peachy

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There is a different time and method to prune any tree or shrub.  Doing it properly will make the difference between a plant that lives long and produces good fruit or flowers, and a plant that is slowly dying by inches through the years. 

 

The tree pictured may develop bushy growth at the tips but will probably die out after a few years.  The main branch tip growth where hormones are produced has been destroyed and the resulting growth will never be as strong as the original main branches.  The bark will never close over those cuts.  Even if it gets really full it will shade the main part of the tree too much and the result will probably be lots of fungus.  The cut tips may allow rot into the tree that will kill it over a long period of time. 

 

A tree needs sunlight inside of it to allow fruit to ripen, and air circulation to dry it and keep diseases at bay.  The one pictured will need lots of restorative pruning if it survives long enough for the pruning to be worthwhile. 

 

This is a free Penn State publication with wonderful information that you can print out.   pubs.cas.psu.edu/FreePubs/pdfs/AGRS95.pdf

 

For some plants it has to be right after they flower, for others it's when the tree is dormant (probably in the middle of winter) when there is no sap or moisture to support fungal growth and the cut can harden before those diseases begin to grow in warmer weather. 

 

There is no one size fits all in pruning unless you don't really care if the plant dies or doesn't produce.

 

For apples:  http://extension.psu.edu/plants/gardening/fphg/pome/pruning

 

All Horticultural information is free and questions can be sent to the attention of a Penn State Master Gardener whose job is to provide researched gardening information to the public.  849-7361 or e-mail JeffersonExt@psu.edu

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There is a different time and method to prune any tree or shrub.  Doing it properly will make the difference between a plant that lives long and produces good fruit or flowers, and a plant that is slowly dying by inches through the years. 

 

The tree pictured may develop bushy growth at the tips but will probably die out after a few years.  The main branch tip growth where hormones are produced has been destroyed and the resulting growth will never be as strong as the original main branches.  The bark will never close over those cuts.  Even if it gets really full it will shade the main part of the tree too much and the result will probably be lots of fungus.  The cut tips may allow rot into the tree that will kill it over a long period of time. 

 

A tree needs sunlight inside of it to allow fruit to ripen, and air circulation to dry it and keep diseases at bay.  The one pictured will need lots of restorative pruning if it survives long enough for the pruning to be worthwhile. 

 

This is a free Penn State publication with wonderful information that you can print out.   pubs.cas.psu.edu/FreePubs/pdfs/AGRS95.pdf

 

For some plants it has to be right after they flower, for others it's when the tree is dormant (probably in the middle of winter) when there is no sap or moisture to support fungal growth and the cut can harden before those diseases begin to grow in warmer weather. 

 

There is no one size fits all in pruning unless you don't really care if the plant dies or doesn't produce.

 

For apples:  http://extension.psu.edu/plants/gardening/fphg/pome/pruning

 

All Horticultural information is free and questions can be sent to the attention of a Penn State Master Gardener whose job is to provide researched gardening information to the public.  849-7361 or e-mail JeffersonExt@psu.edu

 

My father has been pruning his apple trees like the one above for many decades as he was taught by his parents and grand parents and I have been pruning mine the same way for over 20 years.  It may be the wrong way or we have gotten lucky all these years but it works for us.

Our apple trees had so many apples this past season that we had to give many 5 gallon buckets away so they didn't go to waste.

Right or wrong it has worked for us.

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I think you have gotten lucky.   Maybe they're all on a very windy slope and the conditions are absolutely perfect for tons of air flow, but it's not the researched way to prune them.  Congratulations on a great apple crop.  Hope I get as lucky.

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My father has been pruning his apple trees like the one above for many decades as he was taught by his parents and grand parents and I have been pruning mine the same way for over 20 years.  It may be the wrong way or we have gotten lucky all these years but it works for us.

Our apple trees had so many apples this past season that we had to give many 5 gallon buckets away so they didn't go to waste.

Right or wrong it has worked for us.

They have been doing much the same thing or even more severe pruning to the catalpas on the hill and they have been thriving for the last 20 years that I have been watching them. And they were mature trees when I first noticed them. There is usually more than one way to do most things and who is to say that one is better than another?

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