lavender

We're going to give the black plastic bags a whirl and sterilize the pots. That approach seems to resonate with all of the gardeners in training. 👩‍🌾👨‍🌾👩‍🌾👩‍🌾👨‍🌾 
Thanks again for all of your help. You guys are the best! 🙂

I have an upper and lower garden. Both suffer from early blight. Last year, the tomatoes in the upper garden were plentiful while I battled the blight. This year the tomatoes were rotated to the lower garden. The upper got  peppers, zucchini, summer squash, and cucs. Here is where it gets interesting. Some tomato seeds from last years crop germinated and grew in the upper garden along side the peppers I had planted. I left a few grow to observe. The peppers and zucchini were attacked by the same fungi as usual while the over-wintered tomatoes were completely impervious to it. One plant is touching a Cheyenne pepper plant with yellowed leaves and remains green from ground to tip. It appears the seeds that were impervious were the only ones to germinate. One tomato plant has several clusters of fruit I'm hoping will ripen enough to save the seeds and see if the genetics carry over to the next generation. I'll plant resistant varieties now but they are just that, resistant. They still succumb to the blight eventually. I've never seen plants this impervious to the blight.

With a black plastic bag. You might be able to get it hot enough to sterilize it. 

If you really think that the soil in the pots is contaminated do the plastic bag thing again. If you think it was just stress just cover it up for the winter. 

We are currently eating zucchini at every meal so I sympathize. When you garden you eat whatever does well that year unless you find a way to off load it onto what used to be friends. 

We are currently eating zucchini at every meal so I sympathize. When you garden you eat whatever does well that year unless you find a way to off load it onto what used to be friends. 

Thanks so much for all the information. We picked the tomatoes and put the plants in garbage bags. I think we'll be eating tomatoes for awhile. 🙂

Pick the tomatoes and let them ripen off vine. We did this for years before "global warming" gave us a long enough growing season to ripen on the vine. Just don't put them too close together as some will rot and it will spread. As a preventative to the tomatoes becoming infected also dip them in a 10% bleach solution. Some diseases will infect the tomatoes and some won't . Whatever the plants have they are not going to be producing more tomatoes so put them in a plastic bag and let it lay in the sum for awhile. This will kill most things. Blight spores die at 150 degrees F. Burning green plants is difficult and you don't want to let they lay around until they dry. No, don't douse them with gasoline!. Burning barrels and gasoline don't mix she said from experience. 
Early blight shows concentric circled brown or black spots and starts from the bottom up. Late blight is a wet gray spot that turns brown or black.  It too starts at the bottom of the plant.  Septoria leaf spot is another one that will eventually turn your leaves brown and it is prevalent at this time of year. It starts with yellow spots on the bottom of the leaves. They come through on the top and turn brown. If you have root rot from all the rain the plant will start to wilt as well as developing yellow and brown leaves. 
The problem is that all are these are caused by fungi that thrive in humid conditions and and are carried by water. See the problem? There isn't much you can do to prevent it this year and this late in the year I wouldn't bother with fungicides. You could remove and destroy the infected plants and spray the others. Depends on what you have as to how well it would work. 
At this point I was going to suggest growing them on black plastic then I saw your post. So 'nother whole ball game. I see no lesions on the leaves so since they are in containers you might look to growing conditions. We have had a lot of rain but it hasn't been sufficient to make it unnecessary to  water pots that contain big plants that are in the sun. Too much water? Those containers do have drainage holes? Irregular watering can stress the plant. No more than one plant to a container? Sufficient air flow? Since they are in pots if they did pick up something it was airborne but now your soil may be contaminated. Fun, huh? You might look into blight and wilt resistant tomatoes. Google it.  Grow them from seed. It isn't that difficult. Maybe the bio lab has some grow lights. 
Oh, and they did grow. Your tomatoes look better than mine. My garden is a swamp. 

Pick the tomatoes and let them ripen off vine. We did this for years before "global warming" gave us a long enough growing season to ripen on the vine. Just don't put them too close together as some will rot and it will spread. As a preventative to the tomatoes becoming infected also dip them in a 10% bleach solution. Some diseases will infect the tomatoes and some won't . Whatever the plants have they are not going to be producing more tomatoes so put them in a plastic bag and let it lay in the sum for awhile. This will kill most things. Blight spores die at 150 degrees F. Burning green plants is difficult and you don't want to let they lay around until they dry. No, don't douse them with gasoline!. Burning barrels and gasoline don't mix she said from experience. 
Early blight shows concentric circled brown or black spots and starts from the bottom up. Late blight is a wet gray spot that turns brown or black.  It too starts at the bottom of the plant.  Septoria leaf spot is another one that will eventually turn your leaves brown and it is prevalent at this time of year. It starts with yellow spots on the bottom of the leaves. They come through on the top and turn brown. If you have root rot from all the rain the plant will start to wilt as well as developing yellow and brown leaves. 
The problem is that all are these are caused by fungi that thrive in humid conditions and and are carried by water. See the problem? There isn't much you can do to prevent it this year and this late in the year I wouldn't bother with fungicides. You could remove and destroy the infected plants and spray the others. Depends on what you have as to how well it would work. 
At this point I was going to suggest growing them on black plastic then I saw your post. So 'nother whole ball game. I see no lesions on the leaves so since they are in containers you might look to growing conditions. We have had a lot of rain but it hasn't been sufficient to make it unnecessary to  water pots that contain big plants that are in the sun. Too much water? Those containers do have drainage holes? Irregular watering can stress the plant. No more than one plant to a container? Sufficient air flow? Since they are in pots if they did pick up something it was airborne but now your soil may be contaminated. Fun, huh? You might look into blight and wilt resistant tomatoes. Google it.  Grow them from seed. It isn't that difficult. Maybe the bio lab has some grow lights. 
Oh, and they did grow. Your tomatoes look better than mine. My garden is a swamp. 

Looks like groundsel. Senecio vulgaris 
Weeds are taking over the world this summer. Those are an annual so knock it down before the seeds escape. 

Wait until the tree is dormant. That would mean late fall or early winter. The roots are allegedly fairly shallow not going more than 2 feet into the soil assuming you are talking about the miniature ones. Start digging at about the drip-line of the tree or even further. The roots are fibrous so cutting a few won't hurt. There is not taproot that can be damaged. Get a good root ball and wrap it in burlap. They advise one foot of root ball per each inch of tree trunk. Don't let it dry out. 
Dig a hole at least twice as big as the root ball. Put in the tree at the same level it was growing. Backfill the hole and water to settle the soil. It is advisable to remove all grass  or weeds from around the tree until it gets started. The root system doesn't go that deep and it will be in competition with other plants until iit is settled in and growing. Once it starts growing give it some water just to encourage the growth of new roots until it has settled in. You might want to wait until the ground freezes and then mulch it to prevent heaving. Leave a space around the trunk to prevent rot of the bark. 
Now to my "allegedly" shallow root system. We tried to move one that was about 5 feet tall but it had been there for years. Couldn't be done digging by hand. Our soil is clay and very hard to dig which may have been the problem. The messing around with the root system didn't seem to disturb it and it thrives in its original spot today. Good luck with it!
 

Sure, why not?

We have a new rule here. Zucchini at every meal. Try this one. Slice zucchini very thin like with a mandoline or a food processor. Marinate on the counter with lemon juice. When it softens layer it on toasted crusty bread. Sprinkle with olive oil and parmesan cheese. I'm going to try it as a salad here shortly. I think it would be just as good on lettuce. 

We have a new rule here. Zucchini at every meal. Try this one. Slice zucchini very thin like with a mandoline or a food processor. Marinate on the counter with lemon juice. When it softens layer it on toasted crusty bread. Sprinkle with olive oil and parmesan cheese. I'm going to try it as a salad here shortly. I think it would be just as good on lettuce. 

It's called microclimates. There was a time that I couldn't grow peppers while a relative a half a mile closer to town got beautiful peppers. We had cooler nights due to our location. That seems to have changed. Now we get pepplers and hot weather crops to fruit and the cooler weather crops are not doing so well. Last year onions were great. This year they are not doing well. Broccoli, cauliflower and cabbage did nothing last year. This year they are ok but not as vigorous as they were 5 years ago. Fairly sure it is the weather. With all the rain I had a farmer tell me that he has some of the best corn and some of the worst corn he has ever had depending on when he planted and where. Climate has a great deal to do with how well crops grow. Ask a farmer. 

Now that they have the sweet potato vines that don't form tubers they are easier to grow in smaller pots. I kind of liked having the tubers to save for the next season but they did take up a lot of room. This is one of the Brady St. lot pots with a red one. I think I got it from Ted Lyons.
 

Sometimes mice, squirrels or something will bite off a plant. I don't know why they do it because they never eat them.  I used to put a square of aluminum foil around the base of a plant to keep cutworms from biting them off. Haven't had the problem in years though. That might work. 

SO pretty! So far, so good with all of my flower beds. We dug up a large boxful of black eyed Susans for dil on Friday, they're spreading so much and got out of control.
I don't have my veggie garden completed yet, if it would just stop raining for a few days

Black eyed Susans and coneflowers are great if you have a large area to fill. They are a major pain in a small bed. Tell me about the rain! I have lettuce ready but it is growing far from the garden gate  and requires slogging through a sea of mud to reach. Got all of the spring crops planted but waiting for some dry weather to put in the tomatoes and the summer stuff. Hope everything doesn't rot like it did last year. 

Now that they have the sweet potato vines that don't form tubers they are easier to grow in smaller pots. I kind of liked having the tubers to save for the next season but they did take up a lot of room. This is one of the Brady St. lot pots with a red one. I think I got it from Ted Lyons.
 

I fell in love with the sweet potato vines too, I make a hanging basket of them every year for the middle of our gazebo. I just freaking so love spring time and planting and watching everything grow! And I wanted to say a big thank you to you for all of the help you've given me over the years, so very much appreciated!

Pretty sure I've killed a couple of them though... 😢

Thank you so much Lavender. I'll go out tomorrow. And I will threaten hubby dire straits if he dares to get rid of them again without saving the seeds.
Edited: I forgot, I've had all colors in the past including white. I've been told that you don't know what color you'll get, I love them all!

Hey steelnut,  these pictures are from Hanzely's greenhouse. Here are your black eyed Susan vines. Note the white ones. I've had mixed colors but don't remember ever having seen a white one. 

You can try getting rid of the moss by raking it up. You can spray it with 2 ounces of Dawn dish-washing detergent to a gallon of water or use iron sulfate.  After you get rid of the moss lime and fertilize the lawn. You might have to keep after it but neither of these solutions will hurt the grass and the iron sulfate might actually help it. It makes the grass grow greener. If the soil is healthy and the drainage is OK the moss shouldn't grow back.